Is sustainable fashion really available for us all?

Since last year, a lot has been said about conscious shopping and choosing the so-called sustainable fashion. In January also I made a decision not to buy in chain stores any more. What is the final situation? I will tell you about it at the end of the post, but this decision made me see for myself whether introducing only sustainable fashion to the wardrobe is really as easy as it seems when we read the slogans calling for it. I know that those calls are trendy and everyone wants to sign in, but are they possible to be fully put into practice? But let’s start from the beginning.

Why we should stop buying fast fashion?

There are basically only good answers to this question. First of all, we contribute (or at least we hope so) to improving the quality of the natural environment and the quality of human work. Fashion is an industry that pollutes the environment enormously and, in addition to pretty clothes, it also produces tons of rubbish, mainly polyester, i.e. plastic. However, if you are not interested in anything other than yourself, then you should know that personally you will also benefit from this decision. First, you’ll stop spending your hard-earned money on poor-quality clothing that won’t last long. Anyway, the way chain stores treat us calls for vengeance to heaven – poor quality of fabrics and sewing, mediocrity. Chasing seasonal trends also creates expenses. It is even more difficult to express your own style of clothing by jumping from one trend to another and copying lookbooks of popular brands. The more you buy, the less you have – poor quality items often cannot survive more than a few washes, they bulge and deform so that at some point it is a shame to put them on, poorly made seams start to break, and so on. The words „the more you buy, the less you have” also have a metaphorical dimension. Being used to shopping every season, seeing new collections all the time, you get the impression that you still need something, that you still don’t have enough. It’s hard to believe that back in the 1960s or 1970s, there were only two seasons in fashion, and the average women’s wardrobe was of about 40 items of clothing for the entire year. Today we have new products released even several times a month, which gives several dozen „shopping seasons” a year and it is difficult for us to imagine such a small amount of the wardrobe content. It did not come out of nowhere – our behavior and habits are the result of several decades of hard work made by marketing specialists.

Fast fashion – savings that are not there

Fast fashion is not as cheap as we think. Many small expenses make large sums, but plastic card will accept anything, right? The low price of a single item makes big shopping easy and affordable. It doesn’t matter that this thing looks just only a bit the way you wanted it – it’s cheap. „It’s cheap, so it can be OK.” Who has caught oneself on thoughts like this at least once? Who has many times? Do we really care what we buy or wear? How many times only the price was the only selection criteria when buying?

Is sustainable fashion really for everyone?

For many reasons, unfortunately not. First and foremost, we must mention the finances. I do not know what it is like in other countries, but in Poland we still cannot boast about an amazing level of earnings of the average citizen. On the other hand, domestic slow fashion brands can empty the wallet in fast mode. The cost of an average summer dress is at least 3x more than a similar one bought in a chain store. It is known that the work of domestic sewing factories is expensive and we will not discuss the validity of the valuation of clothes. At the same time, it must be admitted that most people cannot afford to completely switch to shopping clothes from this market segment. It also happens that the difference in quality or the way of sewing is not very visible, while it is clearly visible in the price. In such a situation, no rational person will overpay, let alone choose poor-quality clothes just to support a brand.

When it comes to the financial aspect, stocking up in slow brand stores has its advantages – due to the price, we think about the purchase decision much more meticulously and we do not allow ourselves to be given poor quality items. After all, for a higher price we have our expectations, which we do not want to give up as easily as in the case of cheap things. This is an interesting mechanism that shows that our rules and requirements can be easily lowered when a low price is offered.

Another problem that personally touched me the most is the availability of patterns and cuts. Slow brands most often produce a very limited number of patterns/cuts and, whether they like it or not, they stick to the mainstream in terms of design, and at the same time want to be niche. So in most of the offers you will find similar items in oversize cuts or, for a change, very fitting clothes made of ribbed fabric. If your style is different, then you either adapt to what is offered to you or look for clothes in other places. We should also remember that fashion is for us, not the other way round. I see no reason to adapt to what this market offers in such a situation, if my needs and expectations are completely different. It may happen that a brand comes up with the idea of ​​”risking” a different model and you manage to hunt down something for yourself. And here we come to the next problem – the availability of the models themselves. The possibilities of the slow brands are quite limited, which is why clothes often sell off very quickly. The greater the hype on the brand, the less chance you’ll have time to throw something into the basket. Another thing is that you do not have too much time to think about your purchase, because the only goal is to hunt and overtake your competitors. I wonder if the brands that produce clothes for men also similarly play on the lowest emotions (if you have any insights on this topic, let me know in the comments).

So how to maintain a sustainable wardrobe?

Okay, but what now? No chain stores, not too much of slow brands, even if you want to, so what to do?

First of all, there is no reason to choose zero-one. A sustainable wardrobe can also be achieved in another way, precisely with a balance in shopping. Shopping in slow brands can be completed with rational purchases in chain stores, carefully choosing clothes for your wardrobe and not letting one-season rags be stuffed into yourself. Planning your purchases, a little knowledge of fabrics, an observant eye to judge the quality of sewing, and patience in finding the items you need, should be enough to build a satisfactory wardrobe. Chain stores are huge corporations that will not disappear, but perhaps our purchasing decisions will make the quality of the clothes offered to us better in every possible aspect.

Shopping strategy in sustainable closet

Good shopping planning is a topic that has been appearing on the blog for a long time with good reason. It is thanks to it that we are able to resist the temptations and avoid being mislead as consumers. A solid wardrobe structure and awareness of your own style and needs are therefore a priority on the basis of which such a purchasing plan is created. If you can’t afford slow brands or think that you shouldn’t pay so much for clothes, you can still choose wisely in other stores, even those that do not encourage you to be reasonable, constantly tempting you with promotions or seasonal super trends.

The purchasing strategy in creating a sustainable wardrobe is also a well-thought-out choice of which clothes are worth investing in and which are not worth the higher fee in our case. Such a strategy may be based on the division of clothes in terms of durability (it was already discussed here). Also consider which clothes you wear out the fastest and why. This „why” is very important. Because if, for example, you wear clothes quickly because you buy a lot of poor quality and go for quantity, then the recipe is to buy a smaller quantity, but much better made. However, if you quickly destroy something, because, for example, you have such a job that overuses your clothes, it may not be worth investing in every thing. Similarly with white things – most of them quickly lose their perfect whiteness, turning gray and even yellowing. Consider whether it is worth investing more in such items, e.g. a very expensive white shirt, when you will rarely reach for it and simply grow old in your wardrobe.

A sustainable wardrobe is also the sustainable sourcing of materials

Even in chain stores you will find items made of materials derived from sustainable farming or sustainable production. This is a big advantage of the infamous greenwashing. These clothes are always clearly marked as the brand wants to emphasize its „commitment to the environment”. So if you have already decided that you will buy something in a chain store, then you have a chance to choose better.

Following the expenses and CPC

So a bit about money. A sustainable wardrobe is primarily a good use of the clothes you have. Consider whether sometimes you buy clothes just to hang them in the closet and never wear them. Summaries are the next step in your purchasing strategy. Do you know how much you spend on clothes? Do you know how many times a year you wear a given item? Many people do not want to keep track of such expenses because they even subconsciously KNOW that they spend too much and largely on pointless shopping. CPC (cost per wear) is an interesting indicator. You count how many times you put on a given item from the moment you buy it (ok, at least in one season or year). By this sum, you divide the cost of the garment and the cost of a single use comes out. An additional advantage of this method is the opportunity to find out whether you are actually wearing a given item and whether you really need it.

Second hand shopping

Another good way to balance your wardrobe is to buy second-hand clothes. You don’t have to spend your time shifting things in second-hand stores if you don’t like it. In my case, shopping on online sites works well, which I do from time to time. Some brands and online stores resell used copies. But „preloved” can also be a used thing that you can buy or get from a friend or family member. Also remember that overconsumption also includes second-hand purchases. If you buy things just for a price opportunity, although you do not need them at all, because, for example, the jacket cost 2 euro or it was created by #veryfamousexpensivebrand, then these are not sustainable purchases. Not only can you get addicted to fast fashion, this also applies to second-hand purchases.

Attitude to clothes

In a sustainable wardrobe, we take care of what we already have. Proper care extends the life of clothes, shoes and accessories. Compliance with the rules of washing clothes, maintenance of leather elements, as well as renovation of damaged elements will extend their usability. It is easier to take care of decent clothes – good materials and careful workmanship are conducive to care and renovation, bringing the expected result.

Shopping own closet

This is probably the most worn-out slogan ever, which I also often repeat myself, although it annoys me a bit. However, it is a good method. Especially if you have accumulated a lot of resources that you may not even know what you have anymore. It is always worth considering whether sometimes the seasonal trend is already there (as they repeat often) or whether it is easy to achieve with the use of your clothes and a bit of invention.

Instagram update

Many of you, like me, have Instagram accounts. If your leitmotif is a wardrobe, what do you build your content on? On creativity in showing how and with what to combine clothes or on showing how you unpack more and more new packages? Is your goal to be up-to-date with the fashion offer? Do your observers demand it? Do you buy an item only because it looks nice in the picture or because having it is insta-trendy? It is also a huge driver of consumption. Therefore, it is worth considering whether you are falling into a vicious circle and artificially created needs.

How did my New Year’s Resolution end?

Maybe it’s not finished yet, because it’s still going on, but it has been heavily redefined. It turned out not as easy as I thought. First of all, I had about 20 items on my shopping list this year because I was finishing revamping my wardrobe. So I wanted to stock up on things for all seasons – not really interested in trends, I could take advantage of the sale. I was also browsing the current brand offers. First of all, I was looking for things that I planned to buy in Polish slow fashion brands. I managed to buy some really great ones (purse, coat or shoes), but I simply failed on a few. The reasons were as follows: price discrepancy while maintaining similar quality, lack of the desired cuts, poor workmanship or very high prices meant that I divided my shopping this year into 3 categories: slow fashion, second-hand shopping (regardless of origin) and, however, fast fashion but with a very scrupulous assessment of things. I think that next year it may be easier for me, because I will be behind the stage of evamping. Then it will be easier for me to choose single items in the slow fashion version, e.g. following the French wardrobe rules. However, for a person replacing the contents of a wardrobe or building a capsule from scratch, as well as for those who only consider buying new, unused clothes, relying only on slow fashion brands is difficult.